I had an iRiver pmp140 which I was impressed with. It was 40gb, more than id ever need. I think they were £400 here but surely they've come down in price since!
It was quite a while ago now, when they first came out in america. It arrived from the us with a broken screen. Only the glass part, it was otherwise fine. I used it for week or so whilst I waited for UPS to come and pick it up. I sent it back but the sender was told to pay import tax which they refused and UPS eventually destroyed it! So I lost my