Is my new motherboard faulty?

Discussion in 'CPU, Motherboards and Memory' started by n00bster, Feb 11, 2014.

  1. n00bster

    n00bster Geek Trainee

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    Hi,

    I have been building and upgrading my own computers for some years now but I was trying to upgrade my current gaming rig last night and have hit a stumbling block and was hoping someone could help.

    My current rig:
    Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 B3 (2.4GHz 1066MHz) Socket 775 L2 8MB Cache (2x4MB (4MB per core pair))
    ASUS P5W DH Deluxe SKT 775 dual-core Core2Duo Conroe ready Crossfire 8channel audio ATX
    2x Corsair 4GB Kit (2x2GB) DDR2 800MHz/PC2-6400 XMS2 Memory Kit CL5 1.9V
    PowerColor HD 6950 2GB GDDR5 DVI HDMI 2mini DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card
    Enermax 1000W Galaxy CrossFire EGA1000EWL ATX2.2 Modular PSU

    My upgrades:
    Intel Core i7 4771 3.50GHz Socket 1150 8MB
    Gigabyte GA-Z87-HD3 Socket 1150 HDMI DVI ATX Motherboard
    Crucial 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3 1600 MT/s (PC3-12800) CL8 @1.5V Ballistix Tactical UDIMM 240pin
    Samsung 250GB SSD 840 EVO

    Last night I stripped down my rig and plugged in all my new components. When I tried to start up the computer my power supply cut out and started giving a double beep pattern. I knew I wasn’t overloading the PSU as it is a bit of a beast and I bought it knowing it would be future proof for a while.

    A bit of research showed me that my power supply has something called PowerGuard protection and the double beep pattern means “i) Power supply abnormal, protection circuit activated and/or ii) Connector terminals are short circuited.”

    My first approach was to start stripping parts out of the PC until I got right down to simply the mobo, cpu and PSU but I was getting exactly the same result. Next I took the remaining parts out of the case and tried running them sitting on top of cardboard boxes (to ensure there was no short circuit through the case) but this also gave me the same result.

    Next I tested the PSU by plugging in my old mobo and this powered up straight away with no problems (so I know my PSU is ok!). When plugging my new mobo back in I noticed that I have two options for the connector for CPU power. The connection on the board is an 8-pin power connector, coming from my PSU I have an 8-pin plug and 2x 4-pin plugs that can join together to make an 8-pin. I originally had the 8-pin connected and I don’t actually think it would make any difference which I used but if I’m wrong please let me know.

    Currently I have my old rig up and running again and the upgrade parts stored safely in their anti-static bags (I have an anti-static bracelet I use when upgrading). I think there must be a problem with the motherboard as I have tested the PSU successfully. Does anyone else have any theories? I was thinking of testing the mobo this evening with a different PSU but I’m concerned that if there is some sort of short circuit it could fry my new processor too, is it worth doing this test?

    Finally, if my mobo is faulty I bought the lot from ebuyer – does anyone have any experience of returning components to these guys? Should I send back the mobo alone (ie. remove the cpu which I don’t really want to do) or send them both back as a couple.

    Thanks for putting up with my long post, to re-iterate the questions I need help with are:
    Should I use the 8-pin power or 2x 4-pin power? Does it matter?
    Is it most likely a faulty mobo? Any other ideas?
    What should I do about returning any faulty items? Is there a good way to store the cpu?

    Thanks
    Tom
     
  2. Wicked Mystic

    Wicked Mystic Big Geek

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    Before you buy parts, you shoud ask.

    Processor is way overpriced, you won't need 16 MB ram for gaming, SSD is expensive crap.

    As for PSU, that's NOT future proof because of 5 +12V rails.

    Anyway damage has already happened so to your problem.

    If ii) is true, you probably plugged cables wrong way. Double check them.

    8-pin connector is in fact to 4-pin connectors combined. That PSU has TWO 8 pin (2*4 pin) connectors.

    Most probably it will not fry your processor. That's worth to try.

    What's the problem with removing CPU? Easy task. If you didn't buy processor from same guy, send just MB.

    Check that motherboard socket CPU pins are OK. Not like that http://blogs.umass.edu/Techbytes/fi...7ae39b_KGrHqJHJCE8fh-MFU9BPMhtNlu2g60_57.jpeg

    Hard case, it has no pins.
     
  3. n00bster

    n00bster Geek Trainee

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    Thanks for the response but I'm pretty sure I have just found the answer!
    http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2013/05/01/haswell-psu/1

    I believe I can get a work around going for this by booting with a different psu and disabling C6/C7 states in the BIOS. This will do me until I can get a new psu.

    Thank you for the advice about removing/storing cpu's as I have never had a reason to remove one before.
    I disagree about SSDs, maybe not necessary for pure gaming but makes everything else run like a dream on every computer I've installed one on. And as for putting 16gb RAM in the machine, again this is not strictly necessary for gaming but I do use the PC for other purposes too (quite a lot of music manipulation)
     
  4. Wicked Mystic

    Wicked Mystic Big Geek

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    I'm pretty sure you did not. There is no reason for MB manufacturers to put totally useless C6 and C7 states on by default. That will cause many angry customers. So I expect that C6 and C7 states are disabled by default and problem is not there.

    Many processors have pins that bend easilly. That processor does not have so it's more about pins on motherboard, not pins on CPU. CPU easier to store, motherboard much harder.

    SSD's are great but Samsung Evo is expensive crap. Using crappy TLC chips is good idea if price goes down also. Because it does not, Samsung 840 Evo is overpriced crap. Anyway that does mean that there are much better alternatives to that drive at lower price, not that drive is actually THAT crap. What is bought is bought, but I recommend asking before buying next time.

    16MB for other things than gaming is good choice.

    And yes, motherboard manual states that C6 state setting is default Auto, so I think that using different PSU will not solve that problem. I recommend to check motherboard socket pins very carefully.
     
  5. n00bster

    n00bster Geek Trainee

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    Well there is certainly nothing wrong with any of the parts I bought. I connected up a different PSU and it worked straight away, no problems at all.
    I tried disabling C1E, C3 and C6/C7 states in the BIOS but my Enermax PSU still didn't like it.
    I guess it must be something to do with the protection built into the PSU so I have about two weeks to try and find a way to make it work before pay day and buying a new PSU.
     
  6. Wicked Mystic

    Wicked Mystic Big Geek

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    That PSU is year 2006 design so I wouldn't use it anyway.
     
  7. n00bster

    n00bster Geek Trainee

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    I will be getting a new PSU at some point soon after responses I have had here and on other sites. I was just hoping someone could help me get my PC up and running until I can get a new one.
     
  8. Wicked Mystic

    Wicked Mystic Big Geek

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    If the problem is PSU, then there is very little you can do without new PSU.
     
  9. n00bster

    n00bster Geek Trainee

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    That is the annoying part - the PSU works fine when connected up to anything else.
    I know there are problems with the Haswell chips pulling very low power but I have disabled those states in the BIOS and it is still not having it :(
     

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