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I have a recipe for mac and cheese that will take time off your life. -1 stick butter -1 pint half and half -1 pound bag of cheese -1 1/2 pound bag of cheese -1 pound macaroni/shells----whatever pasta you want -Ground chipotle pepper as desired (recommend at least 1 tsp) Prepare pasta as...

Sniper, there's still a ton of spam, bro.

Which exact power supply? Did you plug in both the main 24-pin ATX and 4- or 8-pin power connector on the motherboard?

What were the specs you had? What's wrong with it? I'm trying to see what still works, and so far I'm assuming the mouse, keyboard, monitor, case, and drives are usable. That leaves the motherboard, CPU, RAM, GPU and power supply as needing the upgrade.

Not to come off as a tool, but y'all got a spammer runnin' 'round these parts. Time to dust off that ban hammer and do a thread cleanup. From the Apple Forum to Power Supplies and UPS's, the latest threads are all spam. And it was this way when I popped in to lurk within the past month.

Agreed. It is possible. No good comes when a capacitor dies. If you can handle a soldering iron proficiently, it could be worth your while to switch that puppy out. Otherwise, use your warranty if it's still good, or replace the motherboard.

Still got a warranty? I'd use that first with Dell/Alienware.

Pre-built systems from major manufacturers like HP have a BIOS with limited user options. Overclocking is pretty much out as far as options go. As long as the BIOS has the microcode for a CPU (assuming the same socket and other system requirements) it will work. New parts, again assuming the...

Okay, that works here.

Hello world

Did you clean off the old thermal paste/pad first? If not, and especially if you added new stuff, you actually insulate the CPU. As mentioned, proper contact is critical.

It's a power-saving feature to run the CPU at a slower speed if full-power isn't needed.

What power supply? Brand and model? How hot does it get under load? Try running memtest overnight and see what comes up. Then try running Prime 95 overnight to see if any errors come up as well.

Wouldn't necessarily need a 750W. A quality 550-600W would be plenty, and likely overkill for his system. 750W? Unless it was a good sale or he's thinking of running SLI/Crossfire, over the top, and certainly not a minimum requirement.

Installing ME: Andromeda on the Xbox One. I'm gonna wait until my youngest is off to school before firing it up, though. Not sure if I'll grab another Live Gold sub, since I tend to run around as the freebie kill in multiplayer against 12 year-olds. But, still Mass Effect...

Is it on the motherboard I/O panel (rear of the PC)? Or is it on the front? If it's on the motherboard, something is probably shorted, and could mean the motherboard needs replaced. If it's on the front, it's likely just connected to a header. What you'll need to do is find the header...

Agreed. Motherboard sensors have never been that accurate. As Wicked said, a multimeter will be much better for readings.

So, to necro a thread, I've gotten into Periphery...like a lot. Also, Veil of Maya and Born of Osiris, so kinda digging the djent/deathcore scene right now. Also, Behemoth: not typically into black metal, but The Satanist is an amazing album. You cannot tell me Nergal is not one of the greatest...

I second the motion. If your surfing the web, then a quad-core i7 is going to be overkill. Purpose and budget are the first things, then you can assess what what you need from there.

USB C is just starting to hit, and last I checked, no video cards are coming out with a USB C output. VGA is going away in lieu of HDMI and Display Port and then you need a display itself that is set up to utilize the connection. AMD and nVidia are producing gaming cards or professional ones...