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Agreed. The Via PT880 wasn't exactly a popular chipset, so you may want to steer towards something based off the P965 chipset if nothing else as those would be easier to find and Intel chipsets are generally solid. Awhile back, there was a known issue with cheap, off-brad capacitors that hit a...

Google Play, but only by default since I have always had an Android Smartphone. I really haven't messed with iTunes/App Store for the wife's iPod or iPad mini.

Do you have a budget in mind? If you're doing any RAID array, it is ideal to have identically sized drives for starters. You can mix and match sizes, but outside of envoking JBOD (Just a Bunch Of Disks), RAID bases the array off the smallest drive. For example, RAID 1 is an array type you'd...

Unless, I missed something, CS:GO runs on the Steam engine, which seems to run well on most things that run faster than a Pentium MMX.

Love or hate Microsoft, that's actually illegal to do, and is prohibited under the Forum Rules at the top of the main forum page.

AGP and PCI are pretty much dead, especially AGP. The PCI bus hasn't been optimal for graphics in over ten years, so finding one with HDMI is likely not an option. There is at least a Radeon 4350 with HDMI out and running on an AGP slot. I haven't done a comprehensive search, but I highly doubt...

Look here for various slots.

Are you sure you don't have a memory or hard drive issue?

Can the Windows PCs ping the IP address of the Mac?

I'm inclined to agree with the above and also wonder what cause you have for upgrading? Unless you want to game in a 4K multi-panel environment, or some regular professional work that needs more power, I can't see where you're running into trouble.

The RM line Corsair has out is okay, if that's the one linked. They're not bottom barrel, but they are a step down from previous lines. If you have it, fine, but if not, their HX or TX series performs better. Otherwise, look for Seasonic if available. Wicked did bring up an excellent point with...

An 970 or 990FX-based motherboard with an AM3+ socket is what you want. Asus, MSI or Gigabyte are some of the better options. I know ASrock has a devoted following, but I see mixed reviews on a lot of their boards, so I'm not gung-ho about them, but I wouldn't necessarily say to avoid them...

Again, you can always move to an i7 later if cost is an option. Another thing is, the current crop of Intel CPUs are all Haswell-based. The successor, Broadwell, will have a desktop option for the LGA1150 socket and that is supported by the Z97 chipset. I would focus on laying a solid hardware...

Good. For best results, you'll want to pair your choice with a Z97 chipset-based motherboard. I believe it supports up to 32GB or RAM. With your needs, I wouldn't start at anything below 8GB, but certainly consider 16GB.

Depending on your budget, you could shave off a little money and start with an i5, which would be a boost from what you have and then move to an i7 later when you could afford one. So long as you're staying in the LGA1150 zone, the i7 4790 will be the top option. There is a 4790K that costs a...

The impression I have is that generally HT can help so long as you don't have more VM's running than HT threads available. With an i7, you wouldn't want anything beyond 4 VM's running. If 4 VM's isn't enough, you'll need to move to an LGA2011 socket for those i7's or even a Xeon chip for more...

BIOS isn't bad, but don't forget UEFI that's replacing it. Something that might drive them batty is having the hard drive controller set to ACHI with an OS drive that isn't. You get a non-bootable drive that might prompt some to think an OS reinstall is needed. I know this works under Windows...

Outside of playing with the different CPU and RAM stick in the spot of the current ones, I don't see much else you can do but to exchange the board. If it's within the retailer's return period, make use of that, otherwise, you'll need to go through Asus for an RMA.

When you cleared CMOS, did you unplug the cord from the power supply?

First thought would be to ask if you've cleared CMOS this way: shutdown the system, unplug at the power supply, remove CMOS battery, set CMOS jumper to clear and wait at least 10 seconds (longer wont hurt) in the order given. Do the reverse order before powering the system back on and see if...