i have an Ecs L7S7A2 Motherboard
amd 2600+ (barton)
pc 3200 512mb ddr, 1 stick
40 gig western digital hdd
Power supply may be shot
just bought this Diamond Stleath S100 128MB AGP Graphics Card with RADEON 9600SE
ive tried diff ram
when i plug in my monitor and press power, nothing. fans spin hdd spins heatsink heats up. NO DISPLAY ON MONITOR AAHHH! ive also used a mx 440 and same problem.
if you have any advice i would appreciate it greatly
i just get a black screen…same thing happens when i dont have it plugged in but… I DO!
I was reading my motherboard manual when i came across a “FIDJP1” jumper.
it has like 8 sets of pins. the manual said that it set the CPU ratio but yet lacked the need to say what the ratios are. it says the ratios are:
10.5, 6.5, 8.5, 12.5, 9.5, 5.5, 7.5, 11.5, 6.0, 8.0, 12.0, 9.0, 5.0, 7.0, 11.0
The stock jumper setting ratio is “By CPU”
I don’t know what the ratio to a 2600+ barton is, but I doubt that it matters.
it should be 11.5
11.5 * 166 = 1.9 ghz
thanks, but that didnt solve the problem yet…ARGH!
What changed between the last time your system was working properly and the problem you are having? Was it only the addition of the video card?
i got a mobo+processor, then i got a vid card and i dont know if the mobo+processor works.
Well, if your PSU is in fact good, the next thing I’d suspect would be the motherboard. If it is the MoBo, it could be that:
a) The jumpers are set incorrectly
b) Clear CMOS jumper is “on”
c) MoBo not grounded to chassis properly (shorting)
d) AGP or PCI card not seated properly
e) RAM not seated properly
f) USB header pinout mismatch
g) Bad MoBo?
I think the jumpers are set right…i’ll check the shortings tonight and set it atop my desk. I seated that b*tch in there pretty good. ram is seated good and hard 
usb header pinout mismatch?!..i think i know what that is but explain to be certain.
Mobo is brand new fresh outta teh boxz0r. when i put clear cmos to “oN” it wont even turn on.
i think it may not be grounded to teh chassis…thanks ever so helpful man of many wonderous wisdoms of pooters.
[QUOTE=ninja fetus]
usb header pinout mismatch?!..i think i know what that is but explain to be certain.
[/QUOTE]
On some chassis, the USB headers (for your neat-o external USB connectors) have the pins individually seperated and labeled. You have to plug the USB cable to the header one pin at a time… easy to make a simple mistake and reverse a ground / lead, or worse a lead / data. That’ll definately prevent your system from working properly, and may even damage or destroy that particualr USB header. I’ve accidentally done that before… whoops… 
nope! theyre two-piece connect0rz. One has ground the other doesnt. i dont even use my front usb…well i did for my digicam until i lost the cable after one use
i cant wait…my first vid card besides onboard…i can play halo now. oh yeah..and it came with spyhunter sarcasticly wonders why
`how would i ground my mobo to chassis properly?
[QUOTE=ninja fetus]
…how would i ground my mobo to chassis properly?
[/QUOTE]
Well, you’d make sure none of the solder points on the back of the MoBo aren’t touching any metal on the chassis. The motherboard should be completely lifted off of the chassis by the risers that came with the chassis. Also, it’s hard to describe, but be absolutely certain that there aren’t any risers under where the motherboard is mounted which aren’t directly lined up with a motherboard mounting hole. In other words, a mounting-riser which is causing the short…
all my risers have screws in them so they cant be hitting the mobo but i did have the same clearance problem with my last mobo. if some of the solderings do hit the back, should i just slap in the antistatic plastic that came with the mobo between?
[QUOTE=ninja fetus]
all my risers have screws in them so they cant be hitting the mobo but i did have the same clearance problem with my last mobo. if some of the solderings do hit the back, should i just slap in the antistatic plastic that came with the mobo between?
[/QUOTE]
I’ve only seen a situation like that a couple 'o times, but I think anti-static plastic would be too thin & the solder points might puncture it. On one occassion, I used the rubber buffer pads from a derelict Compaq chassis. That worked rather well, since they were pretty hefty pieces of rubber with adhesive already on one side; just slapped 'em behind the MoBo, worked perfectly. In the other instance, I used plumber’s molding, the roll-out type typically used for sealing shower fixtures. It was some sort of heavy plastic, like PVC. Anything like that would likely do the job. My advice though is to use as little as possible, since that stuff will act as a heat insulator in addition to being an electrical insulator.
it also has a 1/8" thin piece of foam or padding…that might work
thanks…
and you know you could have just hopped on a messaging client and solved it in 3 minutes…but noOOO! you had to be difficult!!!
thanks!
well that didnt work…i took it out of the case and laid everything ontop of my desk and still a black screen. damn. hmm…you think its a bad mobo?
That or the CPU is bad.
BAD MOBO! I went back to Fry’s and they ran a whole bunch of time wasting tests on it. They gave me a new mobo and then ran tests on the processor and said it was fine.
Glad it got worked out.
Big B if i write a guide on how to narrow down a hardware problem.. can you put it somewhere obvious where everyone can see it.. like sticky it or something?
and i’m sure the rest of the active members will be willing to add to it or edit it.. :good: